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| Out There. Part 2. |
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We pass the afternoon at Clem's 'office', a bench on the beach looking out at his beautiful world as he weighs and pays the locals who bring him dried sea cucumber.
He discusses his plans. He might go back to work the liveaboards for a while to buy a few tanks, perhaps a small compressor. Although he can accommodate up to eight people he says he wouldn't want to take more than a couple of divers at a time. He appreciates be beauty of keeping his resort small and exclusive. The tide is out as the sun sets in a spectacular blaze. We walk along 'Clem's Highway' the path cut behind the camp to the tip of Tunnung, and wade out to deeper water where the banana boat is moored. Two minutes later we're back over the wreck. By the time we've kitted up, it's dark. I lend Clem my spare torch. Then there's that brilliant moment when your stomach goes tight, you hold each other's gaze, and even the boat boy dare not breathe. We nod "Ready?”, and roll back in. As we descend over the port side and drop down across the deck our torches reveal a wonderland of coral. Lush trees, heavy fronds and delicate lacy fans of every hue jostle and sway for nutrients, so show-off beautiful they're fighting for our attention like wannabe stars on a virtual coral red carpet that runs along the deck.
It's difficult to equate the scene now at night with the wreck this afternoon. It's completely changed. The colours are so vivid under our white light and the coral is in full bloom, obliterating the ship with a pristine rainbow of staggering quantity and quality. As a wreck diver I'm not normally moved by coral. But this dive changes everything. Surely the vessel has never looked as beautiful as she does now? I'm talking to myself through my regulator, my exhalations thundering in my head, heightened by the increasingly beautiful alien display. Instinctively I appreciate just how lucky I am to see this surreal son et lumiere. Even on the three minute safety stop I'm peering over the edge of the ship, playing the torch over the display below me. We break the surface giddy and laughing in the moonlight. High fives in the water, Clem whooping. "What - A - Dive!!" Those aren't his exact words, but you get the gist. "You know when my torch was flicking around all over the place?!! I wasn't in trouble!!” They weren't my exact words either ... The pair of us are still buzzing as we wander back down the track to Dinner is a buffet affair garnished with lobster tails, which is as rough as it sounds, and I 'sacrifice' myself for seconds, to spare the others. I'm good like that. The electrician wants to know where the movie stars live in London, and is visibly crestfallen when I tell him I honestly don't know. And although his wife won't be thrilled, Tunnung Island is still one corner of the world where the name of England's favourite son and icon, footballer, 'David Beckham', draws blank looks all round. Next morning we explore the wreck's spartan cargo hold, and the large crack that lies just behind where the bridge used to be, above the engine room. Both cavernous spaces are impressive in their own right. Underwater grotto and cathedral respectively.
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Sadly I'm now down to my last pair of cylinders.
On one hand there's the lure of the unexplored wreck beyond the Sanko Maru, which I speculate is what remains of the Japanese submarine chaser CH39, or alternatively we can wait until nightfall, and dive the fantastic hanging coral gardens once again. For a second I consider telling Clem he'll have to sit out the next couple of dives, but it's the shared experience as much as anything that's part of the joy. And furthermore, I'm just not that mean. The sun sets in a blaze.
Logistics Air Nuigini flies a Fokker F100 from Jackson International, Port Moresby to Kavieng daily, via Rabaul. The easiest way to do the Sanko Maru and mini sub is by liveaboard. Check scheduled departures and ensure they will do a night dive on the wreck. www.mvgoldendawn.com You can get a message to Clem by email through Dani Smith, his contact in Kavieng For accommodation overnight in Kavieng whilst you are setting the trip up, try the Kavieng Club. If Clem still has no tanks or compressor, you will need to hire them in Kavieng. Try Dietmar on nearby Lissenung Island, who can also take you diving locally, and accommodate on his island resort. Clem's return transfer from Kavieng to Tunnung Island is not cheap. It's over two hours each way, but he will also ferry the cylinders you hire, & the transfer is for the boat, not per person. You can pay with cash, in kina, or AUD$, or pay into Clem's bank account. There are currently no credit card facilities on Tunnung. Dive Season: April - September
The End of The Sanko Maru The Sanko Maru was an armed freighter launched in 1939. My 'guesstimate' wasn't far out. She is in fact 120 meters long with a beam of 16 meters. Once a 'Hell Ship', transporting POWs from Manila to Palawan, she met her end on the morning of 16th February 1944, in a combined action by USAAF B-25 "Mitchell" medium bombers; 41 strafers from the 345th, and three squadrons from the 38th Bomb Group, who were hunting a convoy reportedly heading for Kavieng. Six squadrons came round New Hanover from the west, and nine strafers from the 500th 'Rough Raiders' came along the strait between New Ireland and New Hanover from the east. They found the Sanko Maru, with a mini sub partially submerged alongside, guarded by a submarine chaser. The freighter was hit by numerous 500lb bombs setting it ablaze. The submarine chaser tried to escape but was strafed repeatedly and, out of control, ran aground on a nearby reef. Disabled and helpless the escort was bombed until the magazine went up, leaving it a shattered hulk. The Japanese sailors tried to make it to shore, but were gunned down. Returning aircrews reported the shallows red with blood, and the Americans were branded "blue-nosed butchers" by Tokyo Rose in one of her propaganda broadcasts. Source material:
Kit Bag Diving at Tunnung is done on air, and with the nearest recompression facility at Port Moresby, a dive computer on a conservative setting is highly recommended. A 3 mm wet suit will be adequate and will protect you from coral abrasions and the occasional stinger in the water. A sunscreen and hat are mandatory. Clem's banana boat has no shade, and it is a long crossing. A suitable anti-malarial to ward off the mosquitos should be a given. The electrical sockets are compatible with Australian plugs. There is no kit for hire on Tunnung. You will also need to take any alcohol or cigarettes you need.
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camp. I can't get over the coral, and why the wreck, certainly at night, hasn't attracted more recognition. Bob Halstead, a pioneer of diving in Papua New Guinea described it as "an excellent night dive”. He wasn't kidding, but I can't help but wonder what else Bob might have seen after dark that would possibly top the Sanko Maru?
